A visit to the seaside—What is a wave?—Wave-motion on water—Definition of a wave—Sea waves—Various forms of wave-motion—Wave length, velocity, and frequency—Atlantic waves—Rules for speed of sea waves—Illustrations of wave-motion—A stone falling on water—Production of a wave-train—Wave-energy—Conditions for the production of wave-motion—Distinction between wave-velocity and wave-train velocity—Why a wave breaks—Waves in canals—Rule for speed of a canal wave—Falling bodies—A “bore”—Tidal waves—Ripples—Distinction between waves and ripples—Surface tension on liquids—A needle floating on water—Experimental production of ripples—Reflection and refraction of ripples and waves—Interference of wave…
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