GROUP FROM THE CRUCIFIXION--SAN VIVALDO _Frontispiece_ FACING PAGE BY THE PORT OF LOVERE 20 To the mind curious in contrasts--surely one of the chief pleasures of travel--there can be no better preparation for a descent into Italy than a sojourn among the upper Swiss valleys. To pass from the region of the obviously picturesque--the country contrived, it would seem, for the delectation of the _cœur à poésie facile_--to that sophisticated landscape where the face of nature seems moulded by the passions and imaginings of man, is one of the most suggestive transitions in the rapidly diminishing range of such experiences.…
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