Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this file which includes the lovely original illustrations. See 42575-h.htm or 42575-h.zip: (https://www.gutenberg.org/cache/epub/42575/pg42575-images.html) or (https://www.gutenberg.org/files/42575/42575-h.zip) [Illustration: HIS BOARD WAS RAISED ON THE CREST OF A WAVE AND THEN TOSSED OVER THE FALLS]…
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